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Samuel Billaud has an unmatched talent for coaxing the best out of northern Burgundy's Chablis region where he set up his own winery a decade ago after 20 years at the helm of the family estate, Domaine Billaud-Simon. Considered the estate's finest premier cru, Montée de Tonnerre Chardonnay comes from a pair of plots - one near the mountain's base, the other higher up - to deliver a unique composition with rich and complex fruits, and a surprising nip of saline to introduce the long finish.

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